FAQ

Laminate is a type of multi-layered flooring built of secondary products of wood processing, consisting of an upper (protective) layer, decorative layer, bearing panel, and a back layer. Apart from its medium cost and easy maintenance, laminates can boast a simple installation. This is a durable, lasting floor with an often attractive design based on imitations of wood, ceramics, and other natural materials.

The structure of laminate is as shown on the picture below.

Surface (protective layer) is based on resin and consists of aminoplastic mass, thermoformed melamine resin, and an aluminum oxide coating. This layer provides protection from different factors and allows a high resistance to scratches, blows, cigarette burns, stains, etc., with an added ability of easy cleaning and maintenance.

The most visible element of a laminate is the decorative layer, which is made of printed paper. The design of laminate largely depends on the pattern of such paper. Modern printing techniques allow for an unlimited outburst of creativity in designing different patterns. Manufacturers can often be distinguished by the design and quality of laminate tiles.

Balancing (base) layer (film) is applied to the back of the bearing panel. This impregnated layer serves to protect the bearing panel from moisture as well as to provide to provide the dimensional stability of the panel.

The core of laminate is the bearing panel, which is the compact basis of this floor made from secondary products of wood processing. Its main qualities are durability, dimensional stability and reliability, and a very high resistance to different factors. The quality level of laminate depends upon this very layer, which is virtually invisible to users.

The noise produced by use of laminate floors is often pointed out as its biggest weakness. This noise can however be reduced by applying protective base layers during the installation. These layers can at the same time offer better thermoisolation.

See table below for the examples of laminate usage in your living and working area.

Laminates in homes and offices – private and commercial use
Symbol/class	Intensity of laminate usage	Intensity of room usage	Usage examples
			Home	Office
	high	intensive use	entrances, entrance halls, hallways and corridors, stairways, living rooms, bedrooms, children's rooms, kitchens, dining rooms	-
	low	occasional use	entrances, entrance halls, hallways and corridors, stairways, living rooms, bedrooms, children's rooms, kitchens, dining rooms	hotel rooms, small offices, conference rooms
	medium	frequent use	entrances, entrance halls, hallways and corridors, stairways, living rooms, bedrooms, children's rooms, kitchens, dining rooms	offices, waiting rooms, hotel receptions, hallways & corridors, boutiques, shops, kindergartens
	high	intensive use	entrances, entrance halls, hallways and corridors, stairways, living rooms, bedrooms, children's rooms, kitchens, dining rooms	hallways and corridors, large and frequent offices, supermarkets and general stores, classrooms

An upper protective layer and a quality core makes laminates highly resistant to cigarette burns, mechanical damage (and those caused by pets), different types of stains (including pencil marks), sun rays, heavy pressures (such as those caused by wheels on furniture) and heavy pressures applied to small surfaces (such as high heels, foots of heavy furniture, etc.), as well as smaller abrasions. All these qualities are specifically marked on the package, installation instructions and user's guides. Please look for the symbols shown on the picture below.

The high-quality finish of Tarkett parquets is obtained though use of Proteco lacquer, which is applied no less than 5 times to the surface of parquet.

Thanks to the Proteco^® protective varnish, modern wooden floors are highly durable, resistant and virtually maintenance-free, with the same quality level as the best lacquered floors.

All Tarkett products can boast a highly resistant surface layer. It's up to you to choose a floor with glossy or matte finish.

Tarkett parquet uses the simplest installation system – T-Lock.

Tarkett offers the most effective installation system which implies fast parquet fitting without glue. The results of numerous tests demonstrate that the T-Lock system enables precise and efficacious installation of parquet with no space left between the tiles. This system allows for fixing the tiles at an angle so they can be locked together like pieces of puzzle (tongue-and-groove joints; see picture). The advantages are obvious: parquet can be installed with ease and precision in a short amount of time, and since the tiles fit perfectly, glue is not needed at all. Although there are no gaps between the tiles, they can be separated and removed if necessary.

Tarkett installation system allows you to install your new parquet in only one day. Forget about sanding, applying adhesive and/or varnish, drying off, and cleaning the mess as is the case with standard parquet. Now you can move in and use your parquet the very same day.
It is of course necessary to adequately prepare the substrate (floor base) in advance (see questions 11 and 12).

If no glue was used during the installation of parquet, floor can be used immediately after the installation. If that is not the case and you decided to use glue in order to obtain a firm bond between the parquet and concrete or other type of floor base, it is necessary to wait at least 1 or 2 days before freely using the room.

Traditional or modern? Should you opt for the system that requires use of glue or choose the T-Lock system that relies on glueless fitting of tiles?

See table below for comparison between the two installation methods in order to obtain a full list of their characteristics and decide what suits you the best.

Good drying of wood is of vital importance for obtaining good parquet quality. At Tarkett, this rather long and controlled process lasts between 6 to 8 weeks, which is necessary to provide maximum stability of floor and prevent cracks and separation of tiles. Good parquet quality largely depends on natural drying of wood. Mechanical drying is not supported as this process cannot be hurried with premium quality parquet, which is supposed to retain its original look and qualities for many years. In order to experience full properties of Tarkett parquet, it is necessary to carefully follow the instructions for parquet installation and maintenance. You should also take special care to obtain the optimal temperature and humidity levels of the location. Please note that parquet may not be a good solution for locations with big variations in temperature and humidity such as terraces and balconies, bathrooms, eaves, basements, etc.

The main quality of Tarkett parquet is its innovative multi-layered structure, which serves as a guarantee of its high quality. This is the single most advanced technology in the field of parquet production which allows construction of parquet that is more durable, robust, resistant, and above all stable compared to traditional parquet.

"Floating" floors implies installation without applying an adhesive or using nails in order to fix parquet firmly to the floor base, thus creating a "free" bond between the two. Please note that the floor base (the substrate) should always be dry and clean, as well as firm, flat and with no visible damages. Relative humidity of air should be 30%–60%, whereas the temperature should not fall below 18ºC before, during, and post installation. Considering moisture can form even in newer buildings, the room must be heated and ventillated before the installation in order to achieve optimal temperature of the interior. Packages of Tarkett parquet should not be opened until just before the installation. Take care about the condition of floor base as the substrate should fulfill an adequate level of dryness. We recommend using Tarkoflex substrate to provide an advanced protection from the existing or eventual moisture in the concrete base.

Water barrier is a type of substrate placed between parquet and floor base. Its role is to protect the parquet from moisture. Remember to always use Tarkoflex protective substrate when installing parquet on concrete floors. You can buy Tarkoflex in all stores of Galerija Podova.

Installation flow
In square rooms it is best to align the tiles by length and parallel to source of light, while in long narrow rooms the tiles are best placed along the longer side in order to follow the natural pattern of wood.
You should at all times mind the expansion gap (the distance between the wall and tiles).

Considering that wood is a natural material, parquet that is not fixed firmly to floor base by means of glue or in any other similar way (the so-called "floating" parquet) will vary in width depending on the outside temperature. Although it consists of several layers, the parquet will nevertheless expand and/or shrink from time to time. That is why you should mind the expansion gap, meaning you should always leave enough space between wall and tiles. It is recommended that you leave at least 1.5 mm per meter of floor width/length or minimum 8-10 mm between walls and floor. This rule is also applied to space between the floor and thresholds, pipes, stairs, pillars, fireplaces, stone floors, etc. The expansion gaps are treated after the installation and hidden with wall battens.
In case you opt for the "floating" type of parquet installation and apply it at an object with several rooms, you should always treat each room as a separate location, leaving the expansion gap at intersections. However, if you choose to apply an adhesive in order to fixate your parquet firmly to the floor base, it is not necessary to include the expansion gaps between rooms.

Parquet and other floors made of natural wood are only installed after the completion of construction and decoration jobs. Parquet installation is one of the last adaptation jobs and is performed just before moving in the furniture. Other adaptation jobs (such as the installation of doors and windows, the introduction of central heating, enabling electrical installations, and providing wall painting) should be completed beforehand.
Make sure the installation site is completely dry and thoroughly cleaned before the installation. You should also keep the temperature and air humidity at an appropriate level and maintain it after the installation is complete. Parquet should be kept at the place of installation in a horizontal position and in its original package for at least 48 hours before the installation in order to adapt to room temperature and inside conditions.

Take care to adequately prepare the floor by providing a dry and clean substrate beforehand. Make sure that the surface you wish to apply parquet tiles to is flat and levelled, with no visible bumps and cracks. Protective foil (the so-called parquet substrate) offers both thermal and sound isolation and is in the same time the only means of preventing moisture affect the parquet, thus serving as a water barrier between the parquet and concrete or other floor base, so do not forget to include it during the installation. This protective foil can be omitted only if you decided to apply glue to the entire surface of concrete or other floor base when installing the tiles.

Yes, but only provided that the parquet is applied to a dry surface such as an old parquet or PVC floor. However, if the parquet is applied to concrete floor, it is necessary to use water barriers such as nylon sheets (or Tarkoflex foil) below the laminate substrate. Installation of parquet usually requires using some sort of a water barrier. Considering that sponge substrate, which is normally used with laminate floors, does not present an adequate protection from moisture, it is necessary to provide a protective substrate to keep the parquet dry. Tarkoflex is one of the best known products used for such purpose and is available at all stores of Galerija podova.

According to research made by the Fraunhofer Institute for Wood Research, all types of parquet can be used with floor heating. Installation of both the heating and the parquet requires careful planning and professional assistance. Parquet installation always demands for an adequate water barrier, usually in the form of a substrate layer made of plastic, whereas floor heating should be kept stable by maintaining an adequate temperature level. Keep in mind that the ideal temperature is between 20ºC and 22ºC, with a note that it should not be allowed to rise above 27ºC at any point in the room, including the floor beneath the carpet.
Note that it's best to avoid using parquet tiles made of beech or ash with floor heating as these types of wood have proven to be the most sensitive with this heating system. Such parquet floors sometimes experience larger cracks and gaps between the tiles, as well as uneven darkening of floor tiles.

One of the most important things is to keep a door mat at the entrance. Water and sand stuck to your shoes can have a negative (abrasive) effect on parquet surface. It is also recommended that you apply felt protectors to the legs of your furniture (chairs, tables, and other movable furniture in particular) in order to avoid scratches.
As wooden floors are vulnerable to extreme moisture, immediately remove all spilt water and any other liquids from the parquet. Considering air humidity also affects wooden floors, it should be kept at 30%–60% RH and at 20ºC in all rooms with installed parquet. In winter, central heating causes a drop in the level of air humidity and sometimes the drop can be so drastic as to make the parquet excessively dry. This is why you should consider investing into a smaller air humidifier, which helps you keep the balance of air humidity and protect both the parquet and your health.

Everyday maintenance of parquet floors should include dusting and/or vacuum cleaning. If necessary, parquet can be wiped with a moist cloth or mop and treated with a mild solution of non-abrasive detergent with water. Take care to always remove excess water before cleaning the floor. Using polishing substances such as floor waxes is not recommended as they make floor surface susceptible to collecting dust, which will affect the overall visual effect of the floor in a most unpleasant manner. In its offer, Galerija podova includes a special substance for treatment of parquet and laminate floors, so please check its availability at your nearest vendor.

Keep in mind that all stains and marks must be removed immediately and should not be given a chance to stiffen or dry off. See table below for description of the most common types of stains and appropriate removal methods.

The Brinell Hardness Test

The Brinell Test is an industry standard test for measuring wood hardness developed by the Swedish engineer J.A.Brinell. This test measures the effect of pressing a small steel ball into the floor. The repeated test is followed by careful measuring of the diameter and depth of the indentations in order to determine the hardness. Simply, the smaller the indentation – the harder the floor! See table below for hardness of several types of wood. Taken that wood is a "breathing", natural material, these values are only approximate as they only reflect average wood hardness. Parquet may be exposed to different micro- and macro-climatic factors, so please take into consideration actual values may differ from those in the table. A higher score reflects a harder floor.

The hardness of wood used for the surface level can prove as very important when parquet is used in busy rooms. In such case, please consider choosing wood with higher hardness score (see table that depicts The Brinell Hardness Scale in question 19). If you're still not sure about appropriate type of parquet, be free to consult our salesmen.

As a general rule, light coloured wood such as beech or ash is not normally recommended for busy rooms as it requires a lot of attention and frequent maintenance. Adequate cleaning is a must as dust and dirt, and even the smallest stains shall be highly visible. Darker, patterned wood is an obvious solution if you need to use your parquet at a frequent location. See table below for types of wood recommended for different locations.

It is possible to remove flaws and fix smaller defects by using paste wood filling in the colour of parquet. It is also possible to replace the parquet plank in the center of the room as well as the tile in the parquet plank. You should however refrain from replacing them yourself and look for the assistance of qualified personnel.